Bird and Bee Farm is opened by appointments only at this time.
To schedule an appointment call Cindy at 512-808-8533. Appointments will be scheduled for Wednesday thru Saturday between 9 am and noon for customers wishing to purchase 3 pullets or more. Appointments are limited to allow our inventory to grow.
We will update our website daily so you can see what is available the day of your appointment before you come.
Text messages are best for questions that are not answered on our website. We will do our best to get back to everyone. Our staff is limited.
· Please don’t come if you are sick.
· Masks are REQUIRED.
· Wash your hands for 20 seconds at the sink on the entrance ramp.
· When you enter the barn door please dip the soles of your shoes in our bleach water bath to the right of the door.
· Practice social distancing always.
We are licensed with the State of Texas and they require we get contact information for all of our customers. When you arrive please get a clipboard and fill out your customer information.
We do not take credit cards but we do take Checks, Venmo and Cash.
When you enter the barn please bring in clean boxes or dog crates to take your poultry home in. We have limited boxes for customers that purchase more pullets than originally intended.
Please read the F.A.Q. section of our website prior to your visit so we can make the best use of your time with us. We want you to have fun picking out your pullets or cockerel.
What age of pullets should I purchase?
If you don’t have any chickens at home you can purchase any age as long as they are within one month of each other to avoid younger or smaller birds getting picked on. All our pullets are old enough to live in an outdoor coop.
If you have multiple coops and the ability to keep chickens of various ages yippee, you will have the best selection.
If you have chickens at home and need to put your new chickens in the coop with your old ones you should read about integrating your flock. It is recommended you purchase pullets that are 4.5 months old or older. We currently have a limited number of pullets in this age group so please discuss when making your appointment.
Do you guarantee your pullets are girls?
Yes, 100., If your new pullet crows please contact us immediately. We will make it good, by taking it back and giving you a credit for the purchased amount or letting you keep the cockerel and giving you a credit for the purchased amount. Some breeds are harder than others to sex.
What do you vaccinate your pullets for and why?
Bird and Bee Farm has all suppliers vaccinate on day 1 for Marek’s. Some suppliers also vaccinate on day 1 for coccidiosis, if not an option we vaccinate at Bird and Bee Farm on day 4 for coccidiosis. At 8 weeks old we vaccinate at Bird and Bee Fam for Fowl Pox, Pigeon Pox and Avian Encephalitis. NO Vaccine is 100%, they simply aid in preventing disease. Bird and Bee Farm is making our best attempt to sell you a healthy pullet or cockerel. Our chicks all originate from NPIP Avian Influenza, Salmonella and Pullorum Typhoid Clean Flocks.
Should I quarantine my new chickens?
Yes, it is suggested.
Do you have any tips to help me integrate my new flock with my old flock?
Adding new members to an existing flock can be a challenge, therefore we suggest purchasing your entire flock at one time if you can. Here are some methods our customers have found helpful.
The more you add the better. This improves the odds for the new arrivals. Adding one or two to a large existing flock is NEVER ADVISED.
Add pullets that are size appropriate and are eating the same feed as your flock.
Add additional feeders and waterers to ensure access to all. Add Vitamin/Electrolytes at the manufacturer’s recommended dosage level to the water for a day or two. This will help with stress. Bird and Bee Farm does not recommend the use of Vitamin/Electrolytes on a continuing basis.
Add distractions like a bale of hay, a flock block or a hanging head of cabbage. Give them something to pick on instead of each other
If possible, have a coop or a play pin within your coop or run for the new members of the flock so they can get to know each other at a distance, one week is suggested.
Another idea is to introduce in an entirely new area, a makeshift chicken yard or fenced off area. This throws the older girls off balance and they are less likely to be harsh and defensive to the newcomers.
Another strategy is to put the new birds in at night once the old flock is settled and quietly roosting. If you do this be ready to supervise in the morning to ensure success and have a hiding place for anyone that is getting picked on.
Your Bird and Bee Farm pullets have never free ranged so they will likely be happy to stay in the coop while yours explore the garden. This might make the transition easier.
If you have one or two members of the flock bullying others remove the bully or bullies. Isolation is a punishment to a chicken and can reset the pecking order. Isolation can just be a couple of hours or longer if they persist. While isolated they should have access to feed and water.
If blood is drawn or a chicken becomes too stressed, it must be immediately addressed. Chickens are unable to ignore a bloody flock mate and this can be deadly. Do not return the injured chicken until she is strong and all traces of blood are gone. Pierce’s Nu-Stock works well to heal chicken wounds. Wash the bloody area and apply Nu-Stock liberally to the affected area. I do not suggest Pick-No-More.
It takes a week to ten days to completely reset the pecking order so be patient and know some aggression is normal. The flock does need a leader.
How many hens can I put in my coop?
The minimum rule of thumb is 3 to 4 square feet per chicken inside the chicken coop, and 8 to 10 square feet per chicken in an outside run. More square footage is better. Skimping on space requirements for a flock of chickens can cause stress, cannibalism, pecking, and sometimes even death.
How many nesting boxes do I need?
One per 4-5 hens, they all seem to want to lay in the same one or two no matter how many nesting boxes you have. The nesting boxes should be lower than the perches to keep the chickens from perching on the nesting boxes.
Do I need a Rooster and how many?
A rooster is not required. People that free range their chickens sometimes like to have one to protect their hens or people might like to have their hens hatch some chicks. If you don’t have a rooster one of the hens will take the place at the top of the pecking order. Roosters can be hard on the hens especially if you only have a few hens. We never suggest a second rooster unless you have over 20 hens and even then probably not necessary.
What do I feed my new chickens?
They need to be on a good Starter Grower until they are at least 4.5 months old. They are not ready for the extra calcium in a Layer Feed until they are close to laying age. When the youngest member of your flock is 4.5 months old you can put the whole flock on layer feed. Young hens can start laying while on a Starter Grower.
When will my pullets start to lay?
A healthy pullet will begin to lay between 5 and 8 months old.
Can I get one of each breed?
We recommend buying in groups. Birds of a Feather Flock Together is a true statement. We have a few breeds that we will not sell individually. Cochins and Salmon Favorelle are two examples. They are so gentle they need the support of each other in a mixed flock.
What if one of my new pullets isn’t doing well?
If you lack chicken experience call or text us right away or consult https://the-chicken-chick.com/. They recover best when problems are address promptly. Being at the bottom of the pecking order is stressful and can cause their immune system to be compromised. Ensure everyone is getting the basics, feed and water. Think twice before removing a pullet because it is going to be hard to re-introduce them to the flock. We can’t always help but we will always try.
Are their things in my environment that can hurt my new chickens?
Yes, and many of them can be avoided.
· Hardware Disease can be avoided by cleaning up after projects in the yard. A shiny piece of wire or screw looks yummy to your pullet and can be deadly.
· Ant, Gopher and Mice/Rat Bait can be deadly to our chickens. Dead rodents that have been poisoned can be deadly.
· Maggots infected with Botulism can be deadly.
· Don’t throw chicken feed or treats on the ground where it can become contaminated with droppings.
· Don’t overfeed treats. Treats like scratch should not make up more than 5% of their diet.
· Use nipple waterers or provide clean water in a clean container daily.
· Don’t overcrowd your chickens. Don’t stress your chickens. Stress taxes their immune system.
· Keep a clean coop and provide a sunny well drained yard.
· Lice and mites need to be identified and treated when necessary https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/, dust baths are helpful in controlling lice and mites.
· Worms are all bad for your flock and can be easily avoided https://the-chicken-chick.com/control-treatment-of-worms-in-chickens/.
· The use of diatomaceous earth is not recommended for your chickens https://the-chicken-chick.com/raising-chickens-naturally-diatomaceous/